NAEA Robot

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Details

Last Updated: Thursday, 29 January 2015 20:34

Designer: Marcia Roullard

 

Instructions

Construction:

1. Wrap a piece of copy paper around a coke can. Roll the can on the diagonally until the paper is used up, then secure with a small piece of tape.
2. With a rolling pin onto canvas, roll out your clay ¼" thick between the slats. Cut a rectangle 9 1/2"x5". With a pony roller, thin the clay at one of the shorter sides. Score the topside of the thinned edge.
3. Lay the can on the clay at the thicker side. Roll the clay onto the can. Score the remaining side using slip (mix of clay you are using and water in a "sour cream" consistency) on the scored surface. Press the pieces together.
4. Take excess clay and roll out ¼” slab for the bottom of the piece. Score the clay on the bottom portion of your cylinder adding slip in preparation to be placed on the slab. Place the cylinder shape with the can still inside on top of the slab. Cut around the cylinder leaving about an 1/8" extra clay. Push up the extra clay on to the sides of the cylinder sealing the bottom layer to the side walls of your tube.
5. Leave the coke can in the clay till the walls of your vessel are stiff enough to stand on their own. If you put a little hole in the bottom it will release easier, as it can form a vacuum. When removing the can the paper should stay behind. You can remove the paper at any time. Fill the hole in the bottom of the can.
6. Cut a 3" circle for the lid, cut a 2 1/2" circle for the lip of the lid, slip attach to the center of the 3" circle, (underside) this will keep the lid from falling off.
7. Cut a length of clay 2" wide, texture with Xeim ARD02 roller. Cut two pieces measuring 5 1/2" and bend the clay together to make cylinders, slip attach both pieces together, press to oval the shape, score and slip attach to the bottom for legs.
8. The eyes were made by pressing large nuts into wet clay, cut around the shape to form a wall, remove the metal nut. Eyes can be made many different ways. Score and slip attach to the front.
9. The mouth is made from a sprocket. Place the form on the clay and trace around with a needle tool, cut around the center hole. Slip, score and attach to the face, cut out the mouth hole.
10. The ears are old camera flash bulbs, any sort of small bulb is good. Thin the clay, texture with the roller, cut 1/4" strips, wrap the strip to form a circle, large enough to hold the bulb. Cut a holes through the ears, so the bulb fit. Always cut the hole larger as clay will shrink 6%.
11. The lid design is also made from a sprocket shape used for a pattern, with space made with a 1/4" cylinder shape, made the same way as the ears. Cut holes in the top so later electric wires can be glued. There are many ways to incorporate found pieces into the robot, it is wise to get the pieces together first so that may be added to the finished robot.
12. Let dry, sponge to clean if necessary.
13. Fire to 04.

 Glazing:

1. Using CB-106 #6 Script Liner and CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, brush 3 coats of S-2712 Monsoon Seas to the body of the robot.
2. Using CB-106 #6 Script Liner and CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, brush the inside and mouth hole, around eyes, and rim of the lid with 3 coats of SC-88 Glo Worm. 
3. Using Cb-106 #6 Script Liner and CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, brush the legs, ears, and top sprocket with SC-75 Orange A Peel, 2-3 Coats. When the legs and ears are dry, brush over with thinned SC-81 Cinnamon Stix to show up the detail.
4. Using CB-106 #6 Script Liner, brush the nose and outside edge of eyes with SC-76 Cara bein Blue, 2-3 coats.
5. Using CB-106 #6 Script Liner, brush the mouth and flat section of the lid with 3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale.
6. Using Cb-106 #6 Script Liner, brush the inside of the sprocket on the lid and the detail of the eyes with SC-15 Tuxedo, 2 coats.
7. Fire to cone 06.
8. Use epoxy to glue in the electrical wire on the lid, the flash bulbs in the ears and the plastic studs on the lid.